{"id":27784,"date":"2018-03-14T03:00:23","date_gmt":"2018-03-14T07:00:23","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.thenatureofcities.com\/?p=27784"},"modified":"2018-03-13T22:48:11","modified_gmt":"2018-03-14T02:48:11","slug":"conquering-the-sea","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.thenatureofcities.com\/TNOC\/2018\/03\/14\/conquering-the-sea\/","title":{"rendered":"Conquering the Sea: Expanding Turkey\u2019s Black Sea coast with stones, apartments, and promenades"},"content":{"rendered":"
The Black Sea, streaked with sun rays, stretches out as far as I can see on one side of the highway. Buildings housing thousands of people living their dreams line the other side of the road.<\/blockquote><\/figure>\n

There\u2019s another one. And another one. And another one. And, yes, there\u2019s one more over there\u2026and over there.<\/p>\n

I\u2019m noticing the many new apartment buildings dotting\u2014defining\u2014Turkey\u2019s Black Sea coastline. From Hopa to Samsun, and nearly all of the cities and towns in between the 500-kilometer stretch we have done so far in this country, it\u2019s hard not to notice these high-rises. They seem to be everywhere, in various states of construction.<\/p>\n

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New construction dots the Black Sea coastline. Photo: Bangkok to Barcelona on Foot.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

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This stretch of the route took us from Batumi, Georgia, primarily along the Black Sea Coastal Road\/state road D-010 to Samsun, Turkey. Some of the cities we passed through include: Hopa, Rize, Trabzon, G\u00f6rele, Giresun, Ordu, Fatsa, \u00dcnye, \u00c7ar\u015famba and Samsun.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<\/div>\n

We notice other things, too.<\/p>\n

Our route takes us around the jagged coast. The smell of salt air and, in some places, tea wafting through plantations and out of processing plants hangs heavy. Through this stretch, we\u2019re lucky to see some kiwi groves and hundreds of hazelnut trees (Turkey produces 75 percent of the world\u2019s hazelnuts, and most of that comes from the Black Sea region, according to Turkey\u2019s\u00a0Hazelnut Promotion Group<\/a>\u00a0(FTG); walking so\u00a0many months along roads<\/a>\u00a0without many trees makes every one we see that much more special. Snow-capped mountains in the distance make us happy to be in the sun looking at a blue sea on a chilly autumn day, even as we wonder about the impact new and under-construction airports will have on maritime ecology. We walk slowly under the weight of 23+-kilogram backpacks on the wide shoulder of the D-010,\u00a0a regionally important and well-maintained coastal highway bridging east-west trade routes. Giant stones, scooped out of the earth, mark the limit where land and sea meet. Sometimes, these boundaries, especially in larger cities, blend with bike lanes, jogging straightaways, parks with public exercise equipment and promenades where locals walk, sit, and sip the region\u2019s beverage of choice, tea.<\/p>\n

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Black Sea stone coast. Photo: Bangkok to Barcelona on Foot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

But when I\u2019m not looking at the small waves hitting the stone coastline or minding the constant flow of long-distance trailer trucks moving contemporary conveniences, I\u2019m wondering about these new buildings. The sheer number of them along our way gives me pause. \u201cWhat\u2019s happening here?\u201d is a question that turns over in my head and rolls out of my mouth when in conversation with locals.<\/p>\n

Development is what\u2019s happening here. Like in other places in the world, Turkey\u2019s strategy to leap forward, in part, involves new construction to house its citizens, stimulate the economy, create jobs, and raise the quality of life of its residents.<\/p>\n

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New buildings in various states of construction dot Turkey\u2019s Black Sea coast. Photos: Bangkok to Barcelona on Foot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

More than a few people tell me that the Black Sea development\u2014read, these new buildings\u2014is linked to Turkey\u2019s nationwide modernization efforts. Central government incentives, usually in the form of what we interpret to be short-term, low-interest loans, has allowed individuals and families to tear down outdated and, perhaps structurally unsound, buildings and replace them with multi-story dwellings that, superficially at least, shine with a \u201cLook how great we are doing\u201d feel.<\/p>\n

Developers, people tell us, have won permission to erect buildings, businesses, and commercial centers, among other things, which are converting many once-rural or suburban towns into bigger urban hubs. I later read reports in several publications, including\u00a0We Build Value<\/a>,\u00a0the Daily Sabah<\/a>,\u00a0PwC<\/a>, about the billions and billions of dollars of investment being poured into Turkey\u2019s ambitious economy-boosting Vision 2023 plan, which calls for nationwide construction of new airports, bridges, roads, tunnels, railways, high-speed trains, irrigation canals, electricity generation capacity, and a Panama-like canal that will serve as an alternate route to the Bosphorous Strait linking the Black and Marmara seas. I read other reports about\u00a0people protesting the environmental impact of a planned gold mine<\/a>\u00a0and\u00a0questioning if the housing construction boom will soon burst<\/a>.<\/p>\n

My head spins. Again, like in other places I have walked, I can\u2019t help but think about the price of progress and the trade-offs that may eventually affect all of us, one way or another.<\/p>\n

For more in the Bangkok to Barcelona series, click here.<\/a><\/blockquote><\/figure>I believe, of course, that the world\u2019s citizens\u2014in this case, Turkish citizens\u2014deserve a place where they can live with dignity, pride, and comfort. Having a safe place to sleep every night has taken on a deeper meaning during my two years of being a homeless nomad. I also appreciate that people want to spend their hard-earned money on a piece of property that creates long-term value and, hopefully, well-being and contentment. It\u2019s just and equitable to give people access to public and private funds, resources and other tools so they can improve their lives and those of their families, participate in urban planning initiatives and walk along their seaside and through open green spaces without getting plowed down by an 18-wheeler.<\/p>\n

But, I\u2019m deflated by a question I find myself pondering over and over again during this 14,000-odd kilometer journey home and can\u2019t seem to resolve: \u201cIs this the best we can do?\u201d<\/p>\n

The root of my frustration largely revolves around long-term sustainability.<\/p>\n

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Hauling stones and reconstructing the coastline. Photo: Bangkok to Barcelona on Foot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Why is the widespread view of development the world over still entangled with the idea of cutting down forests, expanding our environmentally insensitive footprint, extending our shores with questionable materials, raising houses on unstable foundations and selling the capitalist dream of high profits, big returns and having the best new house, car, phone or whatever else defines \u201cdoing well.\u201d<\/p>\n

At the same time, I benefit from development efforts wherever I go in the world. Transportation, energy-acquisition, and infrastructure improvement projects allow me to move, communicate, and connect with other people with relative ease and comfort.<\/p>\n

I\u2019m not alone in sorting through the mental mess development like what I see in Turkey creates in my head and heart. Different points of view on this surface as we walk through Turkey\u2019s northern coast and share conversation with locals holding small glasses of fresh brewed tea.<\/p>\n

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New buildings dot Turkey\u2019s Black Sea coast. Photo: Bangkok to Barcelona on Foot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

One man, a seaman, working on international cargo ships who has a soft spot for the wide-open mountain spaces he discovers on his motorcycle, tells us the region\u2019s fast development over the last 10-15 years has helped many families who were struggling to keep up with repairs on their single-family homes. By leveling those properties and moving into recently constructed ones, people have a new lease on life, a stronger sense of security, and a feeling that they are progressing. Their quality of life is better now than before, he says, adding that the construction boom has ushered in economic, logistics and infrastructure improvements throughout the region.<\/p>\n

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Many plots of land are up for sale as development initiatives continue along the Black Sea. Photo: Bangkok to Barcelona on Foot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

A younger cyclist and outdoor enthusiast shares with us his concern about the stability of the buildings and the high price that comes with development like this: Losing the coast\u2019s natural beauty and resources to accommodate the growing number of people who are leaving behind their rural inland homes, farms, and livestock grazing areas to become city dwellers. Heavy rain is common in this part of the country and increasing floods in areas where erosion-stopping trees no longer exist put many more people at risk, he laments. We recall a news report that ran on TV a few days earlier showing part of a house wrecked during a downpour that triggered flooding along a river up the coast. We shake our heads with dismay.<\/p>\n

I see both perspectives but understand less and less as I come to know more about the places I pass. Conquering the sea, conquering nature, has liberated many people. Conquering the sea, conquering nature, has also unlocked a wave of unpredictable outcomes.<\/p>\n

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Besides new buildings, development has also brought parks, seaside promenades and open spaces for residents to enjoy. Photos: Bangkok to Barcelona on Foot<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

I walk on, glad to be on the promenade made for walkers, runners, cyclists and picnickers instead of hugging the shoulder hoping trucks and cars don\u2019t weave in my direction. The Black Sea, streaked with sun rays, stretches out as far as I can see on one side of the highway. Buildings housing thousands of people living their dreams line the other side of the road. For a moment, everything appears in balance. But, is it?<\/p>\n

Jennifer Baljko<\/strong>
\nBangkok to Barcelona on Foot<\/p>\n

On The Nature of Cities<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

There\u2019s another one. And another one. And another one. And, yes, there\u2019s one more over there\u2026and over there. I\u2019m noticing the many new apartment buildings dotting\u2014defining\u2014Turkey\u2019s Black Sea coastline. From Hopa to Samsun, and nearly all of the cities and towns in between the 500-kilometer stretch we have done so far in this country, it\u2019s […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":231,"featured_media":27793,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[605,273,299],"tags":[49,92,91,392,84,88,53,90],"coauthors":[383],"class_list":["post-27784","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-bangkok-to-barcelona-on-foot","category-essay","category-essay-place-and-design","tag-communities","tag-development","tag-economics","tag-justice","tag-livability","tag-planning","tag-stewardship","tag-sustainability"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thenatureofcities.com\/TNOC\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/27784","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thenatureofcities.com\/TNOC\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thenatureofcities.com\/TNOC\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thenatureofcities.com\/TNOC\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/231"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thenatureofcities.com\/TNOC\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=27784"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.thenatureofcities.com\/TNOC\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/27784\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thenatureofcities.com\/TNOC\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media\/27793"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.thenatureofcities.com\/TNOC\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=27784"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thenatureofcities.com\/TNOC\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=27784"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thenatureofcities.com\/TNOC\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=27784"},{"taxonomy":"author","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.thenatureofcities.com\/TNOC\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/coauthors?post=27784"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}